The Journal
Stories, field notes and guidance for seeing Alaska more clearly.
ALASKA EXPLAINED
It’s one of the first questions most visitors ask. The answer begins with mountains, oceans and a frontier that shaped the way Southeast Alaska Connects.
Why Is There No Road to Juneau?
Explore by Destination
Explore Alaska by destination through thoughtful guides, local insight, and stories shaped by time spent here. Start with the place calling you north.
Juneau | Ketchikan | Skagway | Denali | General Alaska
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Latest Stories
Best Alaska Experiences: What to Book and What to Explore Independently
Some Alaska experiences are worth booking because they provide access, local knowledge, equipment, or a way into places you could not meaningfully reach alone. Others are better when you leave yourself time to walk, notice, and choose your own pace. Here is how I would decide where to spend and where to explore independently.
Fishing in Juneau for First-Timers: What It’s Really Like and How to Choose a Charter
Thinking about fishing in Juneau? Here’s what to know before you book, from salmon, halibut and rockfish to charter regulations, timing, what the experience is actually like and how to choose the right trip.
Whale Watching in Alaska: How to Choose the Right Experience
Whale watching is one of Alaska's signature experiences, but not every trip feels the same. A Southeast Alaska local explains what actually matters when choosing a whale-watching tour: from boat size and time on the water to private charters, photography and responsible wildlife viewing.
Brown Bear Viewing from Juneau: A Day at Waterfall Creek
Bear viewing is one of Alaska’s extraordinary wildlife experiences but what is it actually like to stand beside a salmon stream and watch a wild brown bear move through the landscape? After a fly-out bear-viewing trip from Juneau to Chichagof Island, here’s what I learned about the bears, the experience, and what travelers should know before they go.
Going Deeper: What Southeast Alaska’s Public-Use Cabins Make Possible
A cabin changes the rhythm of exploring Southeast Alaska. Instead of turning back, you get the evening, the changing tide, the night sky and the morning. From John Muir and Dan Moller to Amalga and the remote cabins still on my list, this is what public-use cabins make possible and why I hope exploring Southeast Alaska always takes years.
Late July in Southeast Alaska: Fireweed, Berries & Salmon
As July begins to give way to August, Southeast Alaska reveals the shift in small ways: fading lupine, climbing fireweed, ripening berries, cooler air and the gradual return of salmon and wildlife. Around Juneau, summer is still here but the landscape has already begun preparing for what comes next.
How to Get to Mendenhall Glacier From the Juneau Airport, Ferry Terminal or Cruise Port in 2026: Shuttle, Taxi, Uber, Bus or Tour?
Mendenhall Glacier is about 12 miles from downtown Juneau, and transportation can shape your entire day in Juneau. Here is how the shuttle, taxi, Uber, public bus and organized-tour options compare and which one I recommend as a Juneau local.
Six Days in Glacier Bay: What It's Really Like to Explore Alaska's Wildest National Park by Private Boat
For six days, we traveled deep into Glacier Bay by private boat: sleeping in remote coves, watching glaciers rise beyond the water, and learning how much the experience depends on weather, timing, and life onboard. This is what exploring Glacier Bay actually felt like, beyond the postcard version.
Best Alaska Experiences: What to Book and What to Explore Independently
Some Alaska experiences are worth booking because they take you somewhere you simply cannot reach on your own. Others are better explored slowly, independently, and without a schedule. This guide helps you decide where to spend, where to save, and how to build an Alaska trip with both access and breathing room.
The Town That Still Faces the Water
Petersburg is often described as quaint, but quaintness is only what the work looks like from a distance. In this small Southeast Alaska town, commercial fishing, the cannery and the harbor still shape the rhythm of daily life.
Best Skagway Excursions for First-Time Visitors: What Is Actually Worth Booking?
Compare the Skagway excursions most worth booking, including the White Pass Railroad, Yukon road tours and sled-dog experiences.
The City With No Road Out
Juneau’s roads end at forest, shoreline, neighborhoods and mountains but the city is far from closed in. This story explores how Alaska’s capital moves beyond the pavement, through trails, ferries and an expansive marine highway.
Field Note: The Week Alaska Tipped Into Summer
A summer field note from Juneau to Kodiak, where lupine, bears and lingering evening light marked the moment Alaska tipped fully into summer.
Field Notes from Juneau: Early June, Blue Breaks, Wet Trails, and Quiet Water
Early June in Juneau is lush, wet, reflective, and still holding snow in the mountains. This field note shares what I noticed this week, from moody trails and quiet water to sudden blue breaks, plus practical advice for visitors arriving in Southeast Alaska now.