The Journal
Stories, field notes and guidance for seeing Alaska more clearly.
ALASKA EXPLAINED
Why Is There No Road to Juneau?
It’s one of the first questions most visitors ask. The answer begins with mountains, oceans and a frontier that shaped the way Southeast Alaska Connects.
Explore by Destination
Explore Alaska by destination through thoughtful guides, local insight, and stories shaped by time spent here. Start with the place calling you north.
Juneau | Ketchikan | Skagway | Denali | General Alaska
Explore by Planning Stage
Latest Stories
Field Note: An October Walk at Mendenhall: A Bear, Frost, and Nugget Falls
I went to Mendenhall to photograph Nugget Falls, but a bear crossing the road was my first surprise. Frost along the trail, the last yellow leaves, and fresh snow on the mountains kept me stopping. It was a little glimpse of Juneau between fall and winter, and plenty to notice before reaching the waterfall.
Field Note: Juneau in October - When the Town Grows Quiet
As Juneau grows quieter in October, other sounds come forward. On a walk through the woods, I hear water where summer was quiet, watch clouds move through the mountains, and catch the beat of a bald eagle’s wings overhead.
How to Experience Alaska’s Glaciers: From Mendenhall to Glacier Bay and Beyond
Alaska’s glaciers are not a single kind of experience. Some are reached by road, others appear slowly at the end of a fjord, and some only make sense when seen from the air. This guide explores the glaciers of Southeast Alaska and farther north through the different landscapes and journeys that reveal them.
Field Note: Early September at Mendenhall Glacier
Just after Labor Day, Juneau begins to feel different. A quiet morning at Mendenhall Glacier, with fewer visitors, no salmon and no bears, revealed the subtle weight of Alaska’s changing season.
Planning an Alaska Trip in 2027: What to Decide Now and What Can Wait
Planning an Alaska trip does not require figuring out every detail at once. Start with the decisions that shape the trip, including where you want to go, what experiences matter most, and what needs to be reserved early. The rest can come later.
Alaska Field Note: On the Edge of the Cooler Season
Late August in Southeast Alaska feels like standing between seasons. Summer has not disappeared, but the light has begun to change, the air carries a little more coolness, and signs of what comes next are starting to appear across the landscape.
Best Alaska Experiences: What to Book and What to Explore Independently
Some Alaska experiences are worth booking because they provide access, local knowledge, equipment, or a way into places you could not meaningfully reach alone. Others are better when you leave yourself time to walk, notice, and choose your own pace. Here is how I would decide where to spend and where to explore independently.
Fishing in Juneau for First-Timers: What It’s Really Like and How to Choose a Charter
Thinking about fishing in Juneau? Here’s what to know before you book, from salmon, halibut and rockfish to charter regulations, timing, what the experience is actually like and how to choose the right trip.
Whale Watching in Alaska: How to Choose the Right Experience
Whale watching is one of Alaska's signature experiences, but not every trip feels the same. A Southeast Alaska local explains what actually matters when choosing a whale-watching tour: from boat size and time on the water to private charters, photography and responsible wildlife viewing.
Brown Bear Viewing from Juneau: A Day at Waterfall Creek
Bear viewing is one of Alaska’s extraordinary wildlife experiences but what is it actually like to stand beside a salmon stream and watch a wild brown bear move through the landscape? After a fly-out bear-viewing trip from Juneau to Chichagof Island, here’s what I learned about the bears, the experience, and what travelers should know before they go.
Going Deeper: What Southeast Alaska’s Public-Use Cabins Make Possible
A cabin changes the rhythm of exploring Southeast Alaska. Instead of turning back, you get the evening, the changing tide, the night sky and the morning. From John Muir and Dan Moller to Amalga and the remote cabins still on my list, this is what public-use cabins make possible and why I hope exploring Southeast Alaska always takes years.
Late July in Southeast Alaska: Fireweed, Berries & Salmon
As July begins to give way to August, Southeast Alaska reveals the shift in small ways: fading lupine, climbing fireweed, ripening berries, cooler air and the gradual return of salmon and wildlife. Around Juneau, summer is still here but the landscape has already begun preparing for what comes next.
How to Get to Mendenhall Glacier From the Juneau Airport, Ferry Terminal or Cruise Port: Shuttle, Taxi, Uber, Bus or Tour?
Mendenhall Glacier is about 12 miles from downtown Juneau, and transportation can shape your entire day in Juneau. Here is how the shuttle, taxi, Uber, public bus and organized-tour options compare and which one I recommend as a Juneau local.
Six Days Including Glacier Bay: What It's Really Like to Explore Alaska's Wildest National Park by Private Boat
On a six day journey, we traveled deep into Glacier Bay by private boat: sleeping in remote coves, watching glaciers rise beyond the water, and learning how much the experience depends on weather, timing, and life onboard. This is what exploring Glacier Bay actually felt like, beyond the postcard version.