The Journal
Stories, field notes and guidance for seeing Alaska more clearly.
ALASKA EXPLAINED
Why Is There No Road to Juneau?
It’s one of the first questions most visitors ask. The answer begins with mountains, oceans and a frontier that shaped the way Southeast Alaska Connects.
Explore by Destination
Explore Alaska by destination through thoughtful guides, local insight, and stories shaped by time spent here. Start with the place calling you north.
Juneau | Ketchikan | Skagway | Denali | General Alaska
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Latest Stories
Field Note: An October Walk at Mendenhall: A Bear, Frost, and Nugget Falls
I went to Mendenhall to photograph Nugget Falls, but a bear crossing the road was my first surprise. Frost along the trail, the last yellow leaves, and fresh snow on the mountains kept me stopping. It was a little glimpse of Juneau between fall and winter, and plenty to notice before reaching the waterfall.
Field Note: Juneau in October - When the Town Grows Quiet
As Juneau grows quieter in October, other sounds come forward. On a walk through the woods, I hear water where summer was quiet, watch clouds move through the mountains, and catch the beat of a bald eagle’s wings overhead.
Alaska Field Note: On the Edge of the Cooler Season
Late August in Southeast Alaska feels like standing between seasons. Summer has not disappeared, but the light has begun to change, the air carries a little more coolness, and signs of what comes next are starting to appear across the landscape.
Fishing in Juneau for First-Timers: What It’s Really Like and How to Choose a Charter
Thinking about fishing in Juneau? Here’s what to know before you book, from salmon, halibut and rockfish to charter regulations, timing, what the experience is actually like and how to choose the right trip.
Whale Watching in Alaska: How to Choose the Right Experience
Whale watching is one of Alaska's signature experiences, but not every trip feels the same. A Southeast Alaska local explains what actually matters when choosing a whale-watching tour: from boat size and time on the water to private charters, photography and responsible wildlife viewing.
Brown Bear Viewing from Juneau: A Day at Waterfall Creek
Bear viewing is one of Alaska’s extraordinary wildlife experiences but what is it actually like to stand beside a salmon stream and watch a wild brown bear move through the landscape? After a fly-out bear-viewing trip from Juneau to Chichagof Island, here’s what I learned about the bears, the experience, and what travelers should know before they go.
Going Deeper: What Southeast Alaska’s Public-Use Cabins Make Possible
A cabin changes the rhythm of exploring Southeast Alaska. Instead of turning back, you get the evening, the changing tide, the night sky and the morning. From John Muir and Dan Moller to Amalga and the remote cabins still on my list, this is what public-use cabins make possible and why I hope exploring Southeast Alaska always takes years.
How to Get to Mendenhall Glacier From the Juneau Airport, Ferry Terminal or Cruise Port: Shuttle, Taxi, Uber, Bus or Tour?
Mendenhall Glacier is about 12 miles from downtown Juneau, and transportation can shape your entire day in Juneau. Here is how the shuttle, taxi, Uber, public bus and organized-tour options compare and which one I recommend as a Juneau local.
The City With No Road Out
Juneau’s roads end at forest, shoreline, neighborhoods and mountains but the city is far from closed in. This story explores how Alaska’s capital moves beyond the pavement, through trails, ferries and an expansive marine highway.
Field Note: The Week Alaska Tipped Into Summer
A summer field note from Juneau to Kodiak, where lupine, bears and lingering evening light marked the moment Alaska tipped fully into summer.
Field Notes from Juneau: Early June, Blue Breaks, Wet Trails, and Quiet Water
Early June in Juneau is lush, wet, reflective, and still holding snow in the mountains. This field note shares what I noticed this week, from moody trails and quiet water to sudden blue breaks, plus practical advice for visitors arriving in Southeast Alaska now.
Tracy Arm vs. Endicott Arm: What Alaska Cruise Travelers Should Know in 2026
If your Alaska cruise itinerary changed from Tracy Arm to Endicott Arm, here’s what to know about the difference, Dawes Glacier, Sawyer Glacier, and whether the experience is still worth it.
Field Note: The Kind of Alaska You Can’t Schedule
A quiet spring field note from the water near Juneau, Alaska, passing Boy Scout Beach, watching the ferry head toward Skagway, seeing sea lions and a distant humpback, and remembering why some of the best Alaska moments cannot be scheduled.
How to Get to Juneau: Air, Ferry, or Cruise?
Planning your first trip to Juneau? Here is how to get there by air, ferry, or cruise ship and which option is best depending on the kind of Alaska trip you want to have.