The Journal
Stories, field notes and guidance for seeing Alaska more clearly.
ALASKA EXPLAINED
It’s one of the first questions most visitors ask. The answer begins with mountains, oceans and a frontier that shaped the way Southeast Alaska Connects.
Why Is There No Road to Juneau?
Explore by Destination
Explore Alaska by destination through thoughtful guides, local insight, and stories shaped by time spent here. Start with the place calling you north.
Juneau | Ketchikan | Skagway | Denali | General Alaska
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Latest Stories
Best Alaska Experiences: What to Book and What to Explore Independently
Some Alaska experiences are worth booking because they provide access, local knowledge, equipment, or a way into places you could not meaningfully reach alone. Others are better when you leave yourself time to walk, notice, and choose your own pace. Here is how I would decide where to spend and where to explore independently.
Brown Bear Viewing from Juneau: A Day at Waterfall Creek
Bear viewing is one of Alaska’s extraordinary wildlife experiences but what is it actually like to stand beside a salmon stream and watch a wild brown bear move through the landscape? After a fly-out bear-viewing trip from Juneau to Chichagof Island, here’s what I learned about the bears, the experience, and what travelers should know before they go.
How to Get to Mendenhall Glacier From the Juneau Airport, Ferry Terminal or Cruise Port in 2026: Shuttle, Taxi, Uber, Bus or Tour?
Mendenhall Glacier is about 12 miles from downtown Juneau, and transportation can shape your entire day in Juneau. Here is how the shuttle, taxi, Uber, public bus and organized-tour options compare and which one I recommend as a Juneau local.
Six Days in Glacier Bay: What It's Really Like to Explore Alaska's Wildest National Park by Private Boat
For six days, we traveled deep into Glacier Bay by private boat: sleeping in remote coves, watching glaciers rise beyond the water, and learning how much the experience depends on weather, timing, and life onboard. This is what exploring Glacier Bay actually felt like, beyond the postcard version.
Best Alaska Experiences: What to Book and What to Explore Independently
Some Alaska experiences are worth booking because they take you somewhere you simply cannot reach on your own. Others are better explored slowly, independently, and without a schedule. This guide helps you decide where to spend, where to save, and how to build an Alaska trip with both access and breathing room.
Field Notes from Juneau: Early June, Blue Breaks, Wet Trails, and Quiet Water
Early June in Juneau is lush, wet, reflective, and still holding snow in the mountains. This field note shares what I noticed this week, from moody trails and quiet water to sudden blue breaks, plus practical advice for visitors arriving in Southeast Alaska now.
Tracy Arm vs. Endicott Arm: What Alaska Cruise Travelers Should Know in 2026
If your Alaska cruise itinerary changed from Tracy Arm to Endicott Arm, here’s what to know about the difference, Dawes Glacier, Sawyer Glacier, and whether the experience is still worth it.
Field Note: The Kind of Alaska You Can’t Schedule
A quiet spring field note from the water near Juneau, Alaska, passing Boy Scout Beach, watching the ferry head toward Skagway, seeing sea lions and a distant humpback, and remembering why some of the best Alaska moments cannot be scheduled.
How Many Nights in Denali Do You Need? A Guide to 3 or More Nights
If you’re planning to spend 3 or more nights in Denali, you have options. This guide helps you decide whether 3, 4, or 5 nights makes the most sense for your trip style, priorities, and pace.
1 Day in Denali: What to Do If You’re Short on Time
If you only have 1 day in Denali, the key is not trying to do everything. This first-timer’s itinerary will help you choose what to prioritize, pace the day realistically, and make the most of a short but worthwhile stop.
2 Days in Denali: The Itinerary I’d Recommend for First-Time Visitors
This 2-day Denali itinerary for first-time visitors covers how to spend 2 days in Denali, what to prioritize, and how to build a trip that balances scenery, flexibility, and practical planning.
What to Book in Advance for an Alaska Trip: A First-Timer’s Planning Guide
Planning an Alaska trip can look simple on paper, but some parts of the experience fill earlier than first-time visitors expect. Here’s what to book in advance, what can wait, and how to avoid overplanning the trip.
Denali Bus Tours vs Transit Bus in 2026: Which One Should You Book?
Denali bus tours and transit buses are not the same experience. Here’s what first-time visitors should know about the difference, what changed in 2026, and which one is more worth it for your trip.
Where to Stay Near Denali: A First-Timer’s Guide to Choosing the Right Base
Where you stay near Denali changes the feel of the trip more than many first-time visitors expect. Here’s how I’d think about the entrance area, Healy, and what kind of base makes the most sense for your trip.